Chevrolet Cavalier Car Answers
Last week the car momentarily lost speed while driving; yellow Check Engine light came on then went off after maybe 20 seconds.
Now car won't start at all since not starting on very wet day; injector floods with gas.
New battery, but slow, labored turnover, like a bad battery. Recharging/jump from another car doesn't help.
Replaced wires (spark holes in insulation), distributor rotor and cap (both worn). Also replaced spark plugs.
Spark from center distributor wire to chassis bolt seems small and yellowish but not sure. Have not changed coil or ignition module yet. Nor starter motor. Boy the coil is hard to get to in this car!Always when the car is warm, it occasionly stalls. The engine light came on numerous times. However it has not lit lately. A few times when at idle, black smoke began until i reved the engine. I think it may be the oxygen sensor. The Z-24 has been great, and has 190, 000 miles, is a 6 cyl. with air. Any help would be appreciated.
P.S. a couple of times when i have started the car since this occurrence, the engine raced to 2000 RPM but returned right away.Actually I have a 56 ford streetrod with a Cavalier power steering rack unit powered by the ford pump on the 302 motor. For the first 1000 miles or so after I installed the rack it worked perfectly, but recently it has developed and alarming trick;
When I go from lock to lock, the steering wheel does not come back to the same place at center. It feels like an old, worn out, recirculating ball type steering in that there is a lot of 'play'. I can move the steering wheel almost 1/4 turn before the rack starts to move the tie rods.
There appears to be a component inside the rack assembly slipping. Maybe a shear pin or similar on the pinion? I double checked to make sure that there is absolutely no slack in the column and the steering wheel is solidly set on the splines on the steering shaft; There are two Borgeson universal joints on 'double D' connections between the end of the column and the rack input shaft. All are tight with no slop.
Is there an adjustment on the rack housing that will take up lateral play between the pinion and rack? I found one adjustment directly under the input shaft which seems to adjust the steering pressure but moving that adjustment did not relieve the amount of play in the steering wheel.Hi, I have the ABS, Brake and DRL lights on, always! and some times at night when I turn on the headlamps, the DRL remains on. Also today I have the Anti-theft light blinking and I can't turn on the car. Any idea on how to disable the Anti theft?? for the other 3 lights some one told me That I need to service the brake system, it that correct?
Regards!how do you get the drain cock out, I tried to turn it and it would not move.Yes, I have had this problem now for a few weeks. When accelerating from a stop it bogs and stalls, having very little power until about 15-20 MPH. Seams to do this more when engine is warm. Check engine light came on and I had the codes read. I don't remember the exact numbers but two did come up. One was EGR system, and the other was lean fuel. I have put in a new EGR and that did't fix the problem. Any suggestions?I have a 3.1l v6 in a convertible. It quit one day. It has a new igniton module, crankshaft sensor, knock sensor, oil pressure switch, ECM, Prom, plugs, plug wires, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, Timing has been checked, chain and gears in good shape and lined with the marks, It will spark but the injectors will not fire. I have checked the wires all are continuos with no shorts. fusible links are good, grounds are good, battery is good. turns over fine but the injectors will not fire. I can manually fire the injectors by grounding the injector signal wires from the ecm. ???I can only get the car started by putting a hot wire on the bypass wire. I hear the relay clicking but do not hear the fuel pump running. Have replaced the relay, fuel pump and fuel filter. Have check power coming up to the connector at the tank and have no power there. Unfortunately I do not have a good wiring schematic. The Haynes manual is not been very helpful.ABS system having problems on 93 Cavalier RS 3.1L V6. Every now and then when braking the brakes will become soft and ABS will start to pulse, combined with grinding noise from engine compartment. Usually only happens at slow speeds during regular braking. The vehicle will slow but the braking distance increases much farther than is safe. ABS error codes being generated are 53, 55, and 66. ABS light comes on, but very rarely. Does this signal that the hydraulic assembly needs replacement, or maybe the electronic control module?The headlamps on my car dont work. iv'e checked all the fuses I know of. The DRL dont work either. I replaced the DRL relay to no avail. When I first put the car in Drive the Lights come on (DRL)then I hear the relay clicking and they go out. All the marker lamps, blinkers work fine...just the Headlamps (high or low beam) dont work.This ? is for a 1993 Chevy Cavalier Z24 (v-6).
The anti-lock brake light and the flashing parking brake light stay on. Lights go off when 30 amp fuse is replaced, but fuse blows again soon after. My heating/cooling unit is also not working.
Brakes have been checked and are fine. Have been told there is something causing the fuse to blow. What do you think is the cause? If it were an electrical short somewhere, would that come on a diagnostic check at the dealership?
Many thanksHello I am having trouble when I first start the car and start driving. When accelerating it will cough and hesitate and sometimes stall. If it is really bad it will even cough in park and stall but most of the time when accelerating. It only does it when cold after it warms up it never skips a beat. I took it to a small town shop and they checked engine codes and found none they put a pressure gauge into the fuel rail and said pressure was good while it was coughing. I asked at another shop and they thought it was in the ignition system so changed both coils, plug wires and spark plugs. It seemed to help a little but still coughs sometimes but only for a few seconds and it is good again. Any help would be great. Thank you for your time.Can I replace my temp sensor with an aftermarket one with out affecting the cars computer?Hi,
I have a 1996 chevrolet cavalier car and I am replaceing the engine with a 2002 cavalier engine. I would like to know what parts I have to replace to make it work.I need to know the step by step procedure for replacing the serpentine belt tensionerPlease if u could give me some advise I certainly would appreciate it. My car was running good and than I went to start it and it won't even turn over, it just makes ticking noise. The lights and radio, a/c all comes on good but it just won't start. I'm thinking it is the alternator, but not sure. Before I go buy one and I need to make sure that may be the problem. Do u have any advise
HELP!!!!!!!my digital cluster does not work i replaced it but it still does not work what else could be bad? the tach and ligts are the only thing that work.I have a 1990 chevy cavalier with the 3.1L a week ago I changed my spark plugs/wires, ever since my car seems to have a studder when steady speed(the worst being between 50 and 60. I changed one plug and wire at a time as to not mix any up but I cannot locate a firing diagram to make sure that I have not made a mistake. I also noticed that my exhaust is very rough and uneven. What do you think?I have a 1992 chevrolet cavalier 2.2 liter. I have had a very recent problem. The vehicles life started with me at 55, 000 miles. I drove it for about two years as a commuter on the highway. Car now has 120, 000 miles. The car then was replaced and stored in a storage unit for about two years. The car never gave me a problem other then the lock up converter which was fixed. I also had to have head shaved and minor other fixits. I always started car every month or so as car was locked in a storage unit down the road. It always started and ran fine. Now as of last two months, the vehicle has sat at my parents house outside. Out of knowhere, the vehicle would not start. The vehicle is an automatic. The car as of a few days ago would not not idle. Car turns over and wants to start but won't hold an idle. My father sprayed ether in intake and car then would try harder to idle but continues to die. The weird thing is the accelerator pedal when pressed, would not work properly. It would only affect the idle when fully pressed to the floor at that peak point. So, when sprayed with ether, and if I repetedly pushed pedal to floor, car would idle but only if i kept pressing gas to floor repetedly. (flooding too much gas into motor)Otherwise car would die. I had a mechanic come over to try numerous tests on it. He plugged in his Tech 3 to it, and came up with absolutely no codes he said. He jumped fuel pump relay to verify pump and all that was functioning, and to make sure relay was working properly. Fuel pump works fine. He removed fuel rail also to check the fuel flow. Fuel all seems fine. He came up with at end of day that we needed to locate a new brain. Well I landed one today, and plugged it in. Car still did not idle but I somehow regained full use of the accelerator pedal working. So, I could then just hold pedal down and cause car to idle. Yet car would still die if I let off gas. Then after resetting ecu once again, the car ran and idled fine. I drove it a few miles from a cold start without warming it up first. I thought my problems were possibly over. Now tonight after dark I went out there, and car will idle and start up just fine. I can rev car with it in park but as soon as I put it in drive or reverse and barely touch the gas pedal, she dies. But only from a cold start. I then let car set there and idle in park for 15 minutes, jumped in, and drove her off once again for a mile without a problem. So now I'm stumped. The weather here is kinda humid and at night cool. Some rain here and there. The car did have a problem a few years ago with it not running in the rain, car would not idle. I unfortunitely do not remember what it was that was fixed though. Car has ran fine though like I said until now again. It doesn't seem like same problem. Thats where I am right now. I have two days for most part to get this fixed before i have to leave the state and head to chicago for a while. Any help would be greatful. Thanks in advance.Car will not handle a load. Sometimes it stall while idling and I turn on AC. Also stalls when I put it in reverse. It will backfire through the carb. if you give it gas too fast when you take off.I have done some of the test too check the ignition coil and I am prtty sure it is the coil.Runs fairly well after you get under way. I do not intend to pay a whole lot for your answer as I feel I have solved the problem. I just want a second opinion. I hate to buy the coil and find it not to be the problem.Car no power, stopped running, battery dead.
So replaced with new battery, dead again. Took alternator off and replaced it, when I checked it on the car, was only putting out 12amps, off car on bench test 14amps. When replaced with another new (not rebuild) still only 12amps.
When testing with "the prob" from snap on, with power connected, inserted into plug on alternator when checking terminal in plug, witch created a power sorce, the alternator started putting out 14amps; unpluging the prob, bact to 12amps.
Why is this, and how can I fix the problem?locate hornOnce you start the car, and depress the brake
pedal use either turn signal, turn on the headlights,
or the four way flashers, the car will shut off.
I, have replaced the fuel pump and filter, injector
spark plugs, wires, ignition coil, and module coolant
sensor, temperture sensor.Could this be an
electrical problem in the steering column?
Charles,I have replaced the Module twice. I put on a new cap and rotor, as well as a new ignition coil. When I turn the car over, it tries to start, but I cannot find out why it doesn't. Any help you guys can give me would be much appreciated.
AndrewThe engine will not turn over, there is gas, the battery seems to be strong. The engine is not hot or cold.the car would just stall after being run for awhile
we replaced the fuel pump. we then ran the car again
after about 1/2 hour of driving it stalled again.when it sits for a few minutes it will run agian for a short time and stall againcar idel rough when put in drive or park, 2.2 motor have replace, head gasket, ox sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires, tps, fuel pump, map sensor, fuel filter, air charge sensor, ecm, have disconnected lead to trans did not make any change in the engine, ran compression check 175 to 165 in each cylender what else can i do thank youManual transmission - car seems to be stuck in 3rd gear - clutch appears to be working normally - gear shift will move into any position with or without using clutchMy ABS light comes on intermittently. I have checked the brakes for leaking and wear and the sensor wires for breakage, but have found nothing. I also have intermittent problems with the "air bag" light coming on as well as the "Brake" light coming on. One time I did have the "Engine" light turn on and the engine died, but started right back up. About a month ago a whine developed that increased when I reved the engine, but I do not know if that is related. Can you help?I really appreciate your site. I just had the thermostat, temp sensor and water pump fixed. I was still noticing smoke from the passenger side and when I (slowly) removed the cap from the coolant reservior the coolant gushed out. The coolant light comes on after about 5 minutes of driving and the temp needle goes all the way to HOT. I'm a female and feel that I have already been taken advantage of. So please help! Thanks.how do I tighten the alternator belt on a 1990 2.2 liter ingine without air conditioning?I am having an issue with my signals on my 1997 cavalier. They sometime will flash a couple of times the stop and not come back on. My flashers work fine. I was wondering if it could be the flasher relay and where it is located. ThanksProblems began about 2 months ago. Intermitently died. Occassionally ran rough. Changed oil, oil filter, plugs, air filter. Ran diagnostics twice and everything checked out OK. Told to bring it back when acting up. Did so. Replaced spark plug wires and fuel filter. Rank fuel injector cleaner through tank. Seemed OK for couple weeks. Began intermitment stalling again. Hard starting. Last night daughter stranded because would not start. Went over to help and started right off. Drove home less than 1 mile, stopped, and hard starting again. This morning will crank but not start.after highway driving for about 20 min.'s, then stoping, engine stalls, it will restart but stalls as soon as you shift from park or neutral to drive. it stays running and idleing fine in park/neutral but will not stay running in drive. After some time (varies from a few min.'s to 1 hour) everything is fine.Hi my cavalier turns over just fine. It is getting fuel and I think it is getting spark. I unplugged the injector because I thought I had flooded it and after doing so there was a backfire through the throttle body. So I'm assuming it has spark but does not attempt to start. Any information would be helpful. Is it a timing issue or coil pack? I dont know.For the past week, when I drive my car about 15 miles, it just completely dies in the middle of the road. It will not start, when I have it towed and it gets to the service station they can start it. They replaced the fuel pump, thinking that was it, but it wasn't. Everyone is baffled. Do you have any idea what it could be?I have a 94 chevy cavalier with 186, 000 miles on it. It always starts fine and runs fine. I've been driving it for a about a year with the torque converter unplugged -- to fix the problem I had with stalling while coming to a stop. Now have a new problem, just started a few weeks ago. During deceleration from normal driving speeds, when the engine starts to slow down, it sounds like it is shutting off and a few seconds later starts back up again. So far it hasn't caused any problems, the car still runs fine and doesn't actually stall, but it seems rather unusual and I'm wondering if this is going to lead to something worse. Also, during stop and go driving, during deceleration, sometimes the car will shake a bit. Any ideas?I need simple and easy instructions on how to install a heater core on my 1994 Cavalier. I have never had to work under the hood, so please break it down to me "Barney style".
ChrisHave '92 Cavalier, 110K+ miles, 2.2 w/ stick that hesitstes when leveling off at constant speed. Began right after I had minor work done at oil change place, ie. oil change & fan belt replaced + new pcv valve, also had the fuel injectors "cleaned" (they sprayed cleaner in throttle body while I watched black smoke come from exhaust) what went wrong here?a light comes on that looks like a downward pointing arrow pointing into a wavy line . I am not sure what this light is for and I do not have the manual. it came on when I was driving home. it came on and then went off maybe three times.My cavalier beats us to death. Upon acceleration it jerks and jumps horribly. The check engine light came on when the problem started and I had it checked out to find the MAP sensor and the TPS codes. I replaced those sensors and drove it about a block and the problem started all over again. I have replaced the fuel filter. I can't seem to get any mechanics who agree on what the problem is. And of course it doesn't always do it when the mechanic is driving. I have noticed the problem gets worse when the A/C is on. If you fully accelerate and get up over 50-60 mph then it smoothes out with only slight surges. PLEASE HELP me find the answer.My wife's'93 cav, 2.8 liter, will drive like crazy on the freeway... 80 mph, no prob. When she pulls onto surface streets, and starts hitting lights, it will shake like a bad amusement ride, and stall. I have not noticed any rotten egg or sulpher smell, it appears to be getting gas and spark (80 mph. When I drove it, and came to a stop in gear (Auto) it would shake badly, so I put it in neutral, and the shaking stopped. I have replaced the sparkplugs, but I am guessing that there is no distributor? Or is it hidden back against the firewall. I have read some of the other posts regarding similar conditions, so maybe it's the crank trigger that's bad?can not locate crank senser for repairhow do i change serpentine beltI can drive the car for about ten minutes or when the car get good and warm if I come to a light or a toll or have to stop for anything it shuts off. It will start right up but when I put it back into gear it will shut off again. if I let it sit for a while the process will start againCar engine dies when almost to a complete stop at trafic lights, stop signs... I have been told it can be the coolant temperature sensor. I bought a new one but cannot find where to replace on the car. Please help with any advice...
JoeI have checked all the fuses and light bulbs. I had someone checked the A/C and it was too expensive for my daughter to fix although it is necessary to have working if you live in Miami. Now the problem is that the parking lights and the instrument panel and the shiftconsole does not light up. My opinion is that the mechanic touch or disconnet a wire that makes those work. How do I find wich wire is the wire that will make those work. Any other suggestions?
Thank yousometimes engine will not start after being driven about 1 mile to work. the car will set from 4pm to 12 midnight. but afteryou crank the car for a little while it will start. drive the car back home and let it set until 4pm the next day the engine starts without fail. tonight i let the car set for 24 hours and it started right up but there is a strong smell of gas like it is trying to flood. the oxygen sensor has been replaced with new. also a coolant sensor that turns on the cooling fan has been replaced with new. and a used map sensor has been installed. the fuel pressure is 13 psi, the i.a.c. motor has been cleaned by a professional the fuel filter and air filter is new, the spark plugs and wires are new.My engin started missing out and the check engin light blinks at the same time. I found if I take the fuse that covers the gages, warning lights check engin light and speed O out the miss go's away ?????? got any idea'sMy car over heats all the time .. I changed the radiator cap, thermostat, hoses, fan switch near the thermostat. It seems to boil the water and in goes into the overflow and then it won't come back into the radiator. No water is visable on the ground or white smoke coming from tail pipe. I'm at a losss as to what to try next. Your help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you ... Al Kennedythe tempature gauge goes up to 220 and then drops back around 160 it did this three times then would stay up around 220, then the thermostat would stick.I replaced it twice, then a friend told me to drill a small hole in the thermostat. It stopped the gauge from going up and down but the heater dont work right.Have a cure or something to do for this? Thank You. jimNeed to replace a burnt out headlight on 2002 Cavalier, Having a hard time reaching the bulb. Do you have a walk through or know how to remove the headlight assembly so I can reach the bad bulb?The car has been functioning fine until this problem.
Daughter got in the car after work. Started fine, drove fine, until she was half-way up the hill to our home. Half-way point, engine totally lost power, and now idles extremely rough. It's almost like its not firing on all cylinders, or the engine is being straved for something. Just listening to the engine and exhaust, its like its just having difficulty staying running. I don't see anything visual, hoses, wiring, etc - that would indicate a problem. My intentions is to check for fouled plug, and to change the fuel filter for starters. I was wondering if there is a sensor, that could cause such drastic change in performance. There is a check engine light on, but have not checked the code yet. The vehicle is the z24, 2.4L, dohc, manual.
no mods to the engine or anything. (75, 000 miles)
Recent work about 3500 miles ago, new water pump.
Probably about 200 miles on current gas. If I try and drive, the engine will not allow, seems it just won't go up to around 30 mph only. Thank you for your time.2.2 l engine. Has spark, fuel, 175 psi comp. no trouble codes. will not start backfires through throttle body gas can be seen in the bottom of the intake. My question is: How can I verify it is not Ign. related I cannot find any real timing marks to verify TDC #1 cyl. It seems that I have to pull the timing cover to verify the trouble. If I had a bad crank or cam sensor I feel that I would not have any spark at all. Original problem car was started driven 50 ft. and just shut off. Replaced Plugs and fuel filter.The car was stallig momentarely;lights were flashing in the dash.
When i shut off the car wasn't s able to start any more.When the ignition key is turned, nothing happens not even the radio comes on. Dash lights are off.
Head lights are OK. On the fuse panel I read 12 V at the breakers but no voltage at ECM, gauges cruise wiper etc.. The reading at C/G & PK/TURN is only 2 volts.
Can you help??.I have several symptoms that I'm hoping has one cause. The dome light won't come on, checked bulb and fuses and they're good. The high/low indicator blinks on and off continuously. Occasionally the temp gauge drops to zero and then returns to normal. When this happens the warning lights blink on.
Thanks for your help
jjI have change water pump, thermostat, headgasket, an Icannot keep it from over heating.I have had no problem with it until head gasket blew.know I can't keep it cool.heat tested thermostat it workes at 180.How do I fix it?I need to replace the water pump and I don't know how. I already bought a new one. Do you know if I can find anywhere in the web graphic information of where the water part is located? Is there a site that can help me learn about my car? I have a 1992 Cavalier Station Wagon. Thanks much!hi my cooler fan won't start i checked the fan it works i checked the relay it's good could you help me and also my backup lights won't work i checked all the fuse and the bulbs everything is okWe had the heater core hoses replaced and when we got the car back we have no dash, tail, hazard lights, no radio, no electric door locks. We have turn signals, headlights, electric windows and brake lights. We took it back to the place that worked on the car. Said no relationship to the work they did, but was a multifunction switch in steering column. We have had some other minor problems w/ their work and I just want to be sure that it is that switch and the approximate time/cost to repair the problem.
Thank youMy 3.1L Engine shuts down after running @ 50 to 60 MPH for 10 to 15 minutes. Engine will then restart almost immediately, but would run on only two cyls. Continuous running in this condition eventually clears the problem for a short time.It starts fine sometimes, and other times it will not turn over iti s getting spark, and fuel. I took it to Firestone, and it will start up fine, but does not for me. It seems that it will only happen in the cold.I had a fuel injector leaking so I replaced it. did not know the fuel had filled the cyl. tried to start and busted the front off the starter. now I have the sparkplug out and a new starter on, but when I turn the motor over alot of fuel sparys out of the plug hole, can you tell me what could be wrong. thanksDriving my 94 Cavalier, 40, 000 mile and in good condition, my engine bogged down while doing 55mph, returned to normal for 3 seconds and then died. The speedometer shot to 0mph although I was still coasting at 40mph, at least. Power steering and brakes were non-functional. Checked the ECM fuse for the computer and fuel injection, and it was blown. The ECM fuse blows every time I have tried starting the car with a new fuse in place. It blows within seconds. Does anybody have any suggestions on what might be causing this?When driving my 2001 cavalier (2.2L) at highway speeds (50-60mph)I am experiencing alot of missing and surging. Problem seems to come and go - bad for a while, then goes away for week or two before coming back. Replaced fuel filter, and plugs, no difference. Fuel pump? Plugged injectors? Please help!MY PROBLEM IS WHEN THE CAR GETS TO OPERATING TEMP. IT STARTS TO SURGE & RUN ROUGH. WHEN THE MOTOR IS COLD IT SOUNDS & RUNS LIKE A NEW MOTOR. I'VE DONE JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING POSSIBLE AS FOR A TUNE-UP. I SO REPLACED BOTH COILS, DIS MODULE, INTAKE MANIFOLD & PLENUM GASKETS, CAT COVERTER & MUFFLER. I SO DISASSEMBLED THE FUEL RAIL & CLEANED THE FUEL INJECTORS. I'VE CHECKED FOR VACUUM LEAKS SO IT RUNS AROUND 22hg. I DID HAVE 3 ECM CODES BUT CORRECTED THEM ACCORDINGLY. ANY IDEA'S WHAT MAY BE WRONG. I FEEL IT MAY BE a FUEL PROBLEM. ANY SUGGESTION'S???????????When car is running and being driven, it makes you extreamly sick. you can taste a sweet/salty/metalic taste in your mouth and makes you very dizzy and want to throw up. The heater core was just replaced and now the defrost does not work or the heater at your feet. The only place any air comes out is at the face. It is worse when the car is being driven and when the heat is on.when starting the car, the "battery light" appears, and a light chugging motion happens, then when put into drive the "check engine light" also appears on, and when given gas to drive off, there is no steering! the wheel is stiff and will not turn.
do i need steering fluid? could it be the belt? why does the battery light stay on?
please help.looking to find the map sensor on a 86 cavalier Z24 2.8L multi port, the book shows it on firewall next to heater box, its not, a mechanic friend of a friend said it was mounted on a bracket under the throttle cable mount, its not, please help mehello,
need help, i just bought a new (reman) alternator and battery, it started and then just died, now it wont even click over, the battery is not getting any juice, someone told me it might be the fusible link from the alternator to the starter, is this true??? if so can you tell me where it is and if i can do it myself with out taking out the alternator, they said it was behind the alternator and i cant find it, there is a nut on the right side of the alternator that i think could be it but i cant fit a tool or my hand in there, i dont know what to do, please please helpHi Guys,
I bought this 97 Cavalier for my 16 year old daughter. The car runs fantastic.. with one little exception that for me would be no bother but for her is almost the end of the world and soon will be the end of a 100K engine...
Here we go...
When the engine is cold (like morning)the car fires up and idles great... NO PED / NO ISSUES,
Now When the engine is at operating temp (even like 10 minutes)and you shut off even for 2 minutes and try to start it will not start (of course tures over) UNLESS you keep you foot to the floor...I think it floods out if you don't (not really sure here)... One thing is clear is that if you hold the pedal all the way down this it will not start... Once it fires you can immeaditly let your foot off the gas and it will idle just fine... NOW TRY TO TEACH YOUR 16 YEAR OLD DAUGHTER NOT TO SEND THE RPMS THROUGH THE ROOF :( almost an impossible task....
I hope to hear from you guys soon...