Ford Mustang GT Car Answers
I also had another question as to where the odometer gets its reading from? My odometer just quit working one day and I need it to figure out when I've put 500 miles on my new king cobra clutch to break it in. Any info would be really appreciated.Please help me get back all of the warning chimes for my 96 mustang gt conv, such as door open, seat belt not fastened, headlights left on, and key still in the ignition. "Dlizshs" was stolen from me in 2003 for 26 days. S Clara PD found and returned to me. The perps disconnected and/or removed all her warning sounds. If I could get a step by step on how to reinstall these chimes I would forever and ever appreciate your understanding that my Dlizshs didn't deserve this. Also the driver's side seat's motor makes a sound but it doesn't raise the seat up or down like before. Please help me get my beautiful lazer red 96 convertible back to how she should be? Thank you from bottom of my heart. LizI hit a bump and i mean a small one while coming out of the gas station. My anti-theft light came on and my engine conked out. How do i restart?I purchased a 91 Mustang GT convertible today, It was last tagged in 1997, and probably not started since 1999 or 2000. I removed the air cleaner tube and sprayed engine starter in the opening. It started and purred like a kitten. Gas is in liquid form in tank, it does smell like varnish a bit. It doesn't seem to have fuel pressure to engine. I checked the fuel safety switch in the trunk--its in the down position. I figure the fuel pump is in the tank? Should there be gas in spraying when I press the accelerator peddal near the air in take near engine/efi/carb? Is it a fuel injection system? How do I check the fuel pump for proper operation? Would you drop the tank and pour all old gas out to ensure a completely clean tank? I did replace the fuel filter near the tank. Thanks. Jeffwhen ever I push the gas pedal between half way and full throttle and let off, the rpm's stick between 1500rpm and 2500rpm's. It returns to 1000rpms after I turn off car off and restart engine.this is for dale if he is there... if not i will start from scratch just in case...
88 mustang gt... exiting freeway at 60mph, shifted to neutral (automatic) to get a/c to blow colder air as i rolled down the ramp and coasted down the service road... shifted back to drive and car died, no noises, just died. hasnt started since. dale told me to test for spark with a spark tester... pulled boot off a plug and connected it to the spark tester, cranked and no spark, there is a plug wire coming from a box by the solenoid that plugs into the top of the distributor cap, unplugged it from the top of the distributor and plugged it into the tester and cranked, still no spark, there is a wiring harness that plugs into the left side of the distributor, and the screws to remove it are recessed and the thermostat housing and tensioner pully and upper radiator hose are in the way, and i dont know how to remove and replace a distributor... but i think this box on the side of the distributor is the "ignition module"... i was told this may be bad... i was also told the coil could be bad... fuel pump makes it's little noise when i turn the key, so i think it's fine, and there's plenty of gas. battery is dying due to all the attempted starts though... what is the next step... i am lost beyond all reason...I have a 1991 LX automatic that I converted to a GT manual shift, I put in a new wiring harness, new igniton with new key, engine has spark and will turn over from the top but when i turn the key inside it wont turn over and i have no dash, no wiper or window power, I was thinking maybe it was the neutral safety switch bt i checked all my connections everywhere and I cant seem to find the problem, what do u suggest?I am about to install a c&l 80mm mass air meter. What steps do I have to take so that my car improves in performance and operate properly?Last week you helped me get the carstarted from checking the neutral safety switch but now when I start the car the fuel pump does not kick on, if I hotwire it from the realy it will kick on but if I start it from the ignition it wont kick on.I checked the fuel safety switch and that is pushed down and ok .What else do u think it could be?1987 Mustang GT 5.0 HO with T-5 super duty tranny, Flowmaster stage 3 cat back, 30lb injectors, 130 amp alternator.When not in gear and i rev the motor i get a grinding noise at about 4500 rpms, and the car shakes a little bit when returning to idle at about 3000 rpms.The sound seems to be coming from/around the smog pump. Can i by-pass the smog pump and the car still run properly?I live for horsepower not emissions! What other componants can i safely by-pass(besides a/c)without comprimising the engine running safely?I'm also looking to buy a Wieland bolt on supercharger for my car, what other parts would be essential and/or necassary to do this? I'm currently running a stock cam and have a pair of shorty headers on order.I've read all the questions and answers in your column by the way and would eventually like to put a fogger system on my car also.Thanks for your time and helpvibration starts @ 65mph and gets worse beyond that.I replaced tranny mount and driveshaft, vibration still there at exact same speed, I checked wheel balance, and motor mounts, noticed problem after burnout..I put car on lift ran up to 70mph.axles look straight..can't feel vibration in back seat???HELP PLEASE!!I need to replace my heater core. How do I get the heater case assembly out to removed the heater core.I have followed the instructions by the book, but still the case will not come off. Is there something I have missed.I just bought this car and am having trouble with the Oil Pressure Gauge and the Fuel Gauge not reading properly. I went to my local Ford Dealer and they told me it was most likely a voltage regulator that is located behind the speedo/inst. panel. I have replaced the regulator however it did not fix the problem. Any Ideas??I have a 95' 5.0. Ever since I bought it my oil pressure gauge has always had a problem. Sometimes it works and displays a normal pressure read out. But most of the time it dosen't and the needle just stays all the way to the left. I know its not possible for such a low reading is true because I've taken the car past 160mph and with no oil pressure the engine would have blown up. Again if you have any info. I would really appreciate it.My car will not idle. How do I change the fuel filter.My '88 Mustang GT chugs during acceleration. I have changed the fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, and cap/rotor. It seems to lack power because of this. What may be some things to check? Thanks!Anthony,
Car: 1993 Ford Mustang GT 5.0 H.O
when i turn my car on it sounds fine and everything works, but when i put it in drive after maybe a block or 2 it starts to sound like it is miss firing. then if i give it more gas it back fires, but if i let off it will just sound bad for another 2 blocks of driving at 20-25 mph then it goes away. also it is only in the exhaust on the passenger side of the exhaust.I JUST RAN A CODE SCANNER ON MY STANG AND CAME UP WITH THE FOLLOWING CODES.564, 118, 172, 332, 556. I HAVE THE DEFINITION FOR THESE CODES BUT DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO REPAIR WISE.Thanks for the help. Car will sometimes want to stall after start and only when accelerating after not being driven for 1-2 days. Will "pop" through the exhaust if given modest amount of throttle but if very lightly given throtle will only buck or almost stall. After, the car seems fine after the mild buck or pop and performs normally. Does not SEEM to happen if car is driven every 8 or so hours. Changed fuel filter, injectors, and plugs - no help. Engine Modifications thus far - 2.5 cat back, Hypertech programer (problem with or without program installed), Steeda timming adjuster (problem with and without any adjustment) cold air kit/k&n, C&L maf meter, C&L upper plenum, batery trunk mounted, 180 temp stat. 65, 000 miles had problem since about 12, 000 miles with no engine modifications and just now is getting more often. Thanks.I have recently completed a full custom job on an 86' GT with the "Roller" motor and 351 firing order.
It has a comp polymer power box intake as well as MSD 6al ignition, MSD Blaster, and MSD Billet Distributer. I am using Taylor perf wires, a 70mm
throttle body, March Cold air system, K&N High Flow Air Cleaner, 36lb injectors, as well as an adjustable fuel regulator. True Off Road X-pipe 3" connected to Hedman long tube headers ( what a pain in the ass they were ) I wanted to tell what I had to give you some ideas of where I might start as far as mixture. It runs rich, yes the o2 sensors are still installed. SO rich that at times it can burn the eyes if standing close for a long time.
It has a holley high volume fuel pump and millen high volume oil sending unit as well as a Moroso 7qt pan with windage tray. In all my excitement of getting through with this money pit, what did I overlook? TPS is good, EGR valve seems okay. I had the temp sens checked with a FLUKE II was told it was cool beans.Where.....what..... Even if it is a bit rich it seems to idle at about 950, and it has no hesitations... just stinks....
Thanks for any info....
Sean - 86' GT 2nd Owner... bought in 94' for $1800.00... was black... is now Competition Yellow ( Dupont base coat clear coat ) with Saleen wing and Ram Air hood...Hey,
I have the last of the carbourated mustangs. i recently bought a new re manufactured carb. I have to now get another one, because the secondaries stick open. But also, the care is running really boggy if you know what I mean. It is not sharp, crisp, and highly responsive like it should be. it has a freshly rebuilt 302 from ford. I am having another guy put this second carb on it next week. What adjustments should I make sure he does to the new one...even though it is manufactured for this exact car with the "right" spect?WHEN COLD THE CAR WILL START WAYS, BUT WHEN IT IS WARM YOU HAVE TO HOLD THE GAS PED TO THE FLOOR AND IT WILL START UP WHY IS IT FLOODING? I HAVE CHECKED PUMP RELAY, FUEL PRESSURE, ECT, ACT, AND I CAN HERE THE PUMP COMING ON. ANY ADVICE WOULD BE HELPFUL THANK YOU.All of a sudden, my turn signal will not work. Before it would be intermittent when I would have to move the arm back and forth a couple of times before it would initiate the signal. I think that it's gone now and may be wiring. The fuse that it points to in the manual controls the backup lights as well and they are working so it's not the fuse. Could it be wiring in the steering column?My car would stall in the mornings after driving 7-10 miles on the highway. The engine would shut off and the "check engine" light would come on while driving on the highway at about 65-75MPH. At one point, I was able to restart the engine by down-shifting from 5th gear to 4th. Now, it has gotten progressivley worse. This puts me and others in a dangerous driving condition since the car will slow down when the engine shuts down. The engine may also stall in the mornings if I am at a stop for a period of 10-15 minutes. I may have to wait 2-3 minutes before the engine will restart. I have taken my car to a Ford dealership and they could not find anything wrong after running diagnostics tests.i put long tube hedders and a short h pipe with high flow converters on my mustang the sound was just what we were looking for everything was great for about two weeks then we started to hear a knocking sound at idle it sounded like it was coming from the engine we narrowed it down to the conveter on the passanger side the honey comb had come a lose and was rattling around inside to make long story short the muffler shop would have put on a new converter for a 140.00 that was not in our budget because we had already spent 800.00 on the exhaust already the cheapest and easiest way at the time was to gut out the converters we did not think about the service engine light coming on so we purchased a eliminator set. and installed them on the oxygen senors the check service engine light went off for awhile and it came back on and stays on all the time but the instructins did say to disconnect the negitive side of the battery we forgot to disconnect it did we cause this problem by not diconnecting the negtive side of the battery before installing the eliminators and we also that it might be the hollowed out converters its causing the car to run rich and burn more fuel we have ran out of soulitions of what it could be now we need a expert thank youI have a 1990 Mustang GT. The wipers work off and on and have since I got the car ten months ago, but if you fiddled with the lever enough, sometimes they would work. They've been working lately. A few months ago the horn would come on by itself, car off, and then shut itself off a few seconds, or minutes, later. This eventually happened when I wasn't home and drained my battery all the way down. I disconnected the horn and solved this problem. Today, I shut my car off at a store, came back out in five minutes, and it wouldn't start. The fuel pump came on, the dash lights and the stereo came on, but when i turned the key to "start" nothing happened. I checked under the hood to make sure the battery was hooked up snug, etc, got back in, tried it, didn't start, tried it again, and it started normally. I drove it again about half an hour later and the tach doesn't work anymore. It'll wind all the way around, and bounce all over the place. Idling, it stays at one, but as soon as you speed up, it goes haywire again. I figure obviously the probelm is electrical, and probably centered in the steering column, hence the wipers, horn, and now the tachometer and the ignition (I assume). My car gets really hot going down the highway, I mean so hot that if you lay your hand on the console you jump because it hurts to touch, and your feet sweat because there's so much heat at the front of the car. What could be causing the heat, do you think it melted some wires or something, and would you say the two problems are related? I'd like to figure out what the heat problem is because obviously it's not too handy in hot weather. Also, my sister has a 93 LX with a 302 as well, and it gets kind of hot inside and on the console, but not scalding hot like my car does. Is this a common problem with foxbody Mustangs, and if so, why is mine so extreme?when its over right around 95 degrees outside my car always runs in the upper heat range(Hot but not direcly on the H) It also starts to ping when its running warm..Have noticed that it loses about a cup of anti freeze within a month..and some times it smells like antifreeze while its running(possibly through the exhaust)Is there a 3 core radiator available that might help my overheating problem...Thanks MitchMy 1987 ford mustang gt has a heating problem. I have change the thermostate and the heating core. The blower works fine and the air is slightly warm. I have also replaced the function switch. When I turn on the vents and fan the air goes to the defrost mode as it does when the defrost mode is on. The floor mode works fine. However the aircondition mode goes to the floor and the defrost. I cannot get anything to go through the vents. Plus when I let the air flow at a slow rate it appears much wormer. Frustrated.my 1998 stang gt . when i press the brakes to stop my aod transmission has a heavy downshfit right before it comes to a stop, like a clunking noise. i thought it was the limited slip so i had it replaced and it still makes a clunking noise. i had the rear end checkd and it was fine. the u joints also. it only clunks when i press on the brakes before i stop. i let go of the gas and let it slow down by itself and it has a little clunk noise. pleae helpIf you can help me I would really really apreciate it. I have a week before I'm suppose to be in Iraq. But befor I go I want to take care of this problem because my mom is going to drive my car while I'm gone. I was on the highway doing abou 80-85mph and everything was fine and then my transmission dissengaged on me, and the every time I tried pressing on the pedal it just reved up the RPM's. I've been driving it for about two weeks since this has happened.
The transmission shifts find from 1st to 2nd. but when I reach about 30mph, when it should shift to 3rd it won't. It will not shift pass 2nd at all. When I take the overdrive off it still won't shift pass 2nd but it will grive pass 30mph I can reach 75mph before taking the rpm into the red.
If this helps any I want you to know that it is an automatic but I was down shifting it into 2 like it was a stick. If there's a computer box or something like that, that tells it when to shift that may have gon bad can you tell me please. I went to AMMCO and they charged me 75.00 to tell me my transmission was over heating, but I guess it would if your drving around with your rpms allways over 4500 to keep up in traffic. It was a waste of money and I still dont know whats wrong with it they want to charge 2500 to rebuild it. but my gears inside were working fine. the car just will not let it self shit in to 3rd then 4th. It may have something to do with the overdrive. I'm willing to work on this myself. I have replaced trans before but never rebuilded one.
Thanks in advance
Brian FletcherI recently converted everything from a LX to a Gt and also changed from automatic to manual.I recently also swapped out the 5.0 gas tank and 5.0 rearend .I ve checked all my wires, fuses, relays and for some reason when I start the car the fuel pump does not kick on!I wanted to know exactly what does the neutral safety switch kick on, cuz I am trying to figure out if it is that causing the car not to start, what do u suggest."I have installed a 93 Mustang 5.0L HO engine in a 82 Lincoln Mk VI. 2 dr. [Completed 1 July]
Due to the A/C and battery, on the passenger side, blocking the normal air induction system for a Mustang engine; I had to reverse the intake manifold, modify the throttle body, by reversing throttle pull boss, and getting a shorter throttle cable from a Crown Vic, to make it operate properly.
I have installed an Accel air filter, replaced the rotor and cap, installed new spiral core wires, added a MSD 6 ignition control and Ford TFI blaster coil and new Motorcraft plugs. New dual exhaust system and 02 sensors.
My engine [ignition] starts immediately, but is not operating smoothly and lacks punch. Poor - loud and labored acceleration. Some times while driving it is slightly jerky, other times it runs rather smooth.
I have added a can of fuel injector cleaner, which has not helped to eliminate the problem.
I am still trying to get the bugs out.
What is the correct spark pug gap for a Motorcraft 42C spark plugs?
I have invested several thousand $ and was expecting much better performance. [If not the ignition system, could it be fuel? I had to place two brass connectors to adapt the 82 to the 93 fuel lines. No other fuel mods.]
My mechanic did the wiring and installation. He stays busy and I hate to bug him as he has to make a living. Do you have any suggestions what my problem[s] might be, and how to correct them? Thanks for your help. Mr Tuttle Tecumseh-Ks."Car cranks but does not start. No spark, unsure if getting fuel. Parts changes, dis. cap, rotor, coil, fuel filter, fuel pump. wires, plugs. Problem is completly without a pattern. No stored trouble codes in computer. Two mechanics have had the car. Car sratred all times for them so no luck there. In fact a left the car with a mechanic for a whole week. He said it started everyday. Picked it up friday drove to work and it would not start after work. I am thinking it may be the pickup sensor in the distributor. Does this sound logical? I am at my witts end with this problem.The Transmission is a 5 speed and when I shift into second gear it grinds unless I wait till the engine rpm drops down usually about 4 to 5 seconds. All other gears shift perfect. I have adjusted the cluth cable to specs and it has fresh fluid. If it is necessary to take the tranny apart where can I find the parts and a breakdown of the transmission. Your help is greatly appreciatedmy starter was continuing to run for about two seconds after the car starts. i have replaced the starter four times, and put shims in between the starter and taken them out again. the problem started when i replaced the starter relay. now i am not sure i have all the wires in the right place on the realy. Can you help?The battery guage fluctuates a lot. When I turn on the heater/ac it drops real low. I had the battery and alternator checked and they are fine. I just put in a new starter and the cylinoid. Without the heater/ac on it seems to stay in the center (normal range). Is this normal or should I check out something else?I swaped my duraspark 2 ignition for an MSD 6A. Now there's no juice. However, the battery is fine and all the new ignition module connections are fine. The module itself is fine as well. Where's the problem? With the MSD wiring there are some wires from the old set-up that are left unconnected, but according to MSD that's not the problem. Can you help me?
Hope to hear from you soon,
~ Peter Vlaming, WilliamsburgI took my stang to a dealership to change a squealing belt that squealed on start up. After a few minutes it would stop. But whenever I turn the ac or defrost on, the squealing starts and will not stop until I turn the ac off. The dealership told me it was the tensioner and the water pump and $950.00 later it's doing the same thing. I don't want that dealership near my car again so I installed a new belt myself and it made it even worse. the new belt seams to slide over the alternator without turning it, when ac off. old belt turned alternator but when ac on squealing and SLOWLY moves around all the pullies. Is this bearings in the compressor? a frozen compressor? Or is there adjustments or shims on something that can be adjusted? Note: I'm confident I bought the rite belt (gator belt) 97 mustng GT 4.6 V8 sohc. hope you can help. Thanks BryThe engine chuggs when driving in 3-5th gears at 1700 to 1900 RPM. Happens only when warm. If I am accelerating through the gears there is no chugging. Only seems to happen whn on a road that has a speed limit of 55MPH at a speed on 55 to 60 MPH. Work that has been done is tuneup, changed the tfm module on the distributer new distributer, wires, plugs, air filter, thurmistat, fuel filter. I purchased the car used.just installed a ford motorsport(FMS) aluminum drive shaft, pre-balanced from FMS. i have 4:10 gears, and a race-prep aode transmission w/ 2800 stall. i never had the vibration problem until i re-installed the transmission and the aluminum driveshaft. when driving normally, there is a pulse-like vibration that occurs in the drivetrain that starts at 2k and stops at 3k rpm. do i need to remove the rearend vibration dampener located on the underside of the rearend?I don't have a clue as to what is wrong with my car. Yesterday it was running fine, I came to a stop signal and when I started out the gear shifter started shaking (it is a 5 speed). It shakes like a shimmy, but only on the shifter, I don't feel anything in the steering wheel or car itself. I did notice that a little later I could possibly hear a slight exhaust leak at an idle (maybe), and then I started for home after work, drove 1/4 of a block and the entire car died. It wouldn't start and when I tried to get it to start the starter just sounds like its spinning extremely fast, but the car won't start. At an idle (the last time it did run yesterday), it felt slightly rough. The car has always run extremely well - I've had no problems with it. Whoever has the car before me changed the belts in the front (I guess to get more horsepower), I had a problem with the car not starting, but the mechanic changed one or two of the belts and told me to "hit the gas harder" every one in a while to charge the system. I drive very calmly. My brother thinks the mount on the transmission broke or wore out causing the shimmy, and the shimmy might have cause the starter to strip or disengage...I have no idea...Installed 89 5.0 5 spd into 68 mustang, EFI, computer and all. Starts fine cold and runs without problems. When warm the starter can barely turn motor over. Battery volatage OK at starter relay.(battery relocated to trunk)Acts as if timeing to far advanced or vary high engine compression.My son's 1994 Mustang GT, 5.0, 5spd., has a "horrible entire car shaking vibration" at all rpm ranges, esp. 1000 rpm. (once, the idle dropped down and it smoothed out for a "split second") Problem started when he started it up, prior it was okay. He had installed a performance chip in the intake, which we pulled out, and problem still exists. Had Ford recalibrate the computer, no change, they said it was plugs. I changed plugs, ck'd. plug wires, no change. Had an expert mechanic check it, and said it appeared to be a clutch problem/vibration. I pulled the flywheel and clutch and cannot find any visible problems. (I forgot to mark the flywheel and I read the 5.0 is externally balanced, will be a problem when I re-install the flywheel?) I am having the flywheel resurfaced & balance ck'd., (or should I replace the flywheel?) replacing the pressure place, disc, throw-out bearing, pilot shaft bushing. The mechanic said the harmonic balancer appeared okay, but could the key have sheared and locked the balancer off center as a possiblity? When I get the clutch replaced and the problem still exists, what then? Engine problem? Will appreciate your help.
StephenNEED TO KNOW WERE FUEL PUMP RELAY SWITCH ISI have a '96 mustang gt convertable. The car starts and runs fine but there are times where it will not idle. Therefore, I have to keep my foot on the gas to keep it running.
I just replaced the plugs, mass air sensor, and throttle position sensor. The problem still remains.
Any suggestions??Driving on the freeway at 60mph yesterday, a/c had new freon added, but high rpm's wont let it cool as much as if it was at a lower rpm, so when i exited the freeway i shifted to neutral (automatic) and just rolled down the offramp enjoying my new a/c, then when i tried to shift back to drive, the car died and hasnt started since, gas gauge is bad, so ithought no gas, added 2 gallons, and no start, what in the world could be the problem? this is my work car and i need to get some help fast, and have a hard time trusting shady mechanics, and especially the dealer... Help me pleaseLast night I turned my key off and the engine kept running normal. I can switch between run and off acc ect and nothing happens. Its a manual transmission so I choked it down with the clutch to stop the engine. I then restarted the engine and the switch still wont stop the engine in the off position. I took the switch module off and its ok. The rod in the sterring colum with the hole in it that moves the switch pin moves foward when you turn the key to start BUT does not retract the rod when you turn the key to the off position. I could stick my finger in at the bottom of the hole that the rod slides in and push the rod back as I turned the switch off and when I turned it to the run or start position it would move foward. it seems that something broke or disconnected between the switch and the rod that retracts the rod. Have you ever heard of this and how do you go about repairing this?i have a real hard time getting my car into gear and i have been grinding third gear all the time even when the clutch is all the way in. is this real serious?MY NAME IS MATT, I DID A V6 TO A V8 MOTOR SWAP ABOUT 2-3 MONTHS AGO, I DID EVERYTHING THAT I WAS TOLD TO DO AND SO FOUND SOME OTHER THINGS AFTER DOING RESEARCH ONLINE. I RAN INTO A PROBLEM RELATED TO THE WIRE HARNESS. THE COMPUTER IS THE CORRECT ONE FOR THE MOTOR THAT I GOT BUT THE HARNESS HAS TO BE DIFFERENT, AS I WAS TOLD BY THE SHOP MECHANIC THAT I TOOK IT TOO. WHEN I PLUG THE HARNESS INTO THE COMPUTER THAT I HAVE FOR THE V8, I GET SPARK BUT THE FUEL PUMP AND INJECTORS ARE NOT GETTING ANYTHING. WHEN I THEN PUT THE V6 COMPUTER BACK IN, THE FUEL PUMP KICKS ON AND THE MOTOR WANTS TO START BUT OBVIOUSLY THE TIMING AND NUMBER OF SPARK PLUGS IS INCORRECT SO IT DOESN'T START. I'VE CLED NUMEROUS FORD DEERS AND OTHER MECHANIC SHOPS AND NO ONE I MEAN NO ONE HAS BEEN ABLE TO HELP ME. THE ONLY THING I GOT WAS FROM THE MECHANIC THAT WORKED ON IT SAID THE HARNESS IS THE WRONG ONE FOR THE YEAR AND MODEL MOTOR AND COMPUTER I HAVE. BUT NO ONE CAN TELL ME WHICH HARNESS I NEED, CAN YOU GUYS PLEASE HELP ME???? I'VE TRIED ABOUT EVERYTHING. THE COMPUTER CODE IS 1R3F-12A650-MC AND THE HARNESS NUMBER I HAVE IS 1R33-12A581 AGAIN CAN SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME ON WHAT IS WRONG WITH THIS SO I CAN FINLY DRIVE MY PRIDE AND JOY AGAIN, THANKS
MATTWhen driving I get a humming noise coming from the front left side of the car. When I turn left the noise goes away. WHen I return back to center the noise returns. It only goes away when turning to the left. This sound is usually noticeable at or above 30MPH. I can feel a high frequency vibration in the gas pedal, brake pedal and clutch. The loudness of the sound appears to vary with the speed. What could this be? Thanks.