Honda Accord Car Answers
My 1992 Honda Accord Sedan's check engine light, ABS light and Brake lamp light on the instrument panel will not turn off.It stays on constantly.What do I do?
ThanksMy 1985 accord, it seems to start fine, when first started it smokes(white)qutie a lot. After driving it for approx. 20 minutes or so it starts to chug, (kinda like it is running out of fuel), I can pull over to the side of the road and let it sit for just a couple of minutes, sometimes less, I dont shut it off I just let it do its thing, it idles horribly, like something is clogged somewhere, then it just frees itself and starts to idle fine, I can then head back down the road for another 20+ minutes and then it is the same thing all over again. It dosen't overheat and there is oil in it, I have put heat gas dryer in it to make sure no water in fuel, I have been told maybe a bad head gasket or head, I have no ideas please help.The engine idles rough at idle. It has 149000 on it and it runs OK when driving with no problems with it. Dealer has tightened motor mounts but still rough.What do you think could be wrong.I have a 93 Honda Accord with 140, 000 miles. My car will not start when ambient temp is 85 degress plus and humid. If my car is in the shade it will start, but if in direct sunlight it will not. If I wait until evening when ambient temp is cooler, my car will always turn-over and start immediately.While driving my 1990 Honda Accord, the speedometer and the odometer stopped working as well as the S indicator showed on the panel it goes on after about 1 mile and the engine light goes on after about 4 miles.Is it electrical or something different?.my accord began to make a whining problem and now all dash lights stay on all the time. Any ideas?It cranks but it won't start. The timing belt was broken and replaced. Did ok for a while then it happened again.
Had it towed to a shop and when it was set on the ground it cranked fine. It was ok for a few days then quit again.
The shop said replace distributor. That did not help. It has power at the black/yellow wire coming into the distributor but nothing registers on the timing light when cranking over.While the transmission shifts with some irregularity, the most noticeable and bothersome problem is that it starts in a higher gear after you stop and then accelerate -- accelerating extremely slow. However, all symptoms go away once the car is warmed up.
The dealer wants to replace the transmission. But, it works perfectly when warm. Your opinion?
DavidMy 1985 accord, it seems to start fine, when first started it smokes(white)qutie a lot. After driving it for approx. 20 minutes or so it starts to chug, (kinda like it is running out of fuel), I can pull over to the side of the road and let it sit for just a couple of minutes, sometimes less, I dont shut it off I just let it do its thing, it idles horribly, like something is clogged somewhere, then it just frees itself and starts to idle fine, I can then head back down the road for another 20+ minutes and then it is the same thing all over again. It dosen't overheat and there is oil in it, I have put heat gas dryer in it to make sure no water in fuel, I have been told maybe a bad head gasket or head, I have no ideas please help.One of my cylinders is not firing. I changed the plugs, distributor cap, wires, and rotor. I am now wondering if the timing is off ?
Can a 5-speed EX be timed ?
Thank you in advance, Joemy problem is with my AC. It blows cold for the first 30-40 minutes, then it gradually begins to blow warmer and warmer until it gets to blowing air that is the same temperature as outside. It happens in the day, night, summer, winter, , , I know I tried it. Took it to my Honda dealership and they said the system needed to be recharged, so they did. problem is still present. somebody told me that the Expansion Valve ubder the dash was bad. dont know if he knew what he was talking about. maybe you guys know what to do here, how much $$ am i looking at spending or is this a do it yourself type repair. I am pretty good with auto mechanincs so if i can do it myself, i will. Please help,
Joe in freaking hotter than Hades Texas!My honda accord 1999 with a 4 cyl vtec engine has motor oil getting into the water sytem. It's not transmissin fluid, it is motor oil. About 1/2 quart a week or 200 miles. What can be causing this problem?Recently, both my passenger and driver side windows are not operating correctly. Both windows (which are powered) can roll up and down. However, when rolling both windows up, they start chugging once they reach the top; as if they aren't catching a gear tooth. When I took the car to my local dealership, they said that I would need to replace either the window motor or window regulator. Is there any way to tell which part it is? Again, this only happens when each window reaches the top when rolling them up.I replaced the timing belt of my 1991 Honda Accord EX coupe with the 4 cyl motor again at 180, 000 miles. A couple of months later I noticed that the car was beginning to burn a little oil. It smoked badly at cold start. Now with 217, 000 miles, I am getting worried. It is burning about a quart every few hundred miles. Since I now live in another state, pretty far from my original repair guy, I am nervous about taking it to just anyone. Do you think that the camshaft seals or crankshaft seals could be defective? Would it be burning oil this bad if it were these seals? I have not noticed any oil leaking on my driveway or from under the car. All this began after the last timing belt change. The motor did seem to make a new whirr sound the day I picked it up but the mechanic reassured me that it was normal. Should I be worried that another problem now exist?Manual transmission. Four wheel disc and ABS. Seems to happen when warm outside (and high humidity). When stopping, brakes seem to fade. At complete stop, system seems to depressurize and the pedal goes all the way to the floor. I have bled the brakes, and doesn't seem to be losing fluid, but haven't checked around the master cylinder. How does the vaccuum assist system work with these brakes, and could this be the problem?1996 Honda Accord- 92000 miles, with brakes depressed shirt lock release will not disengauge have to try over in over again to get the car to shift out of park, at times i have to use the Shift lock release slot. What can the problem be?After driving for an hour or so on the highway through heavy rain, we stopped for gas. After filling up, when I started the car, the alarm system activated, which started the horn beeping rythmically. No button on the remote shut off the horn, nor did turning off the ignition. Eventually, we just drove away, and after a minute or two, the horn stopped beeping.
After another hour, we completed our trip. At this point, either opening or closing a door also set the horn alarm off. After the car sat for several hours, the horn alarm problem did not recur.
Clearly, water crept in somewhere and shorted something out. But where? Is there a particular connector which is a likely candidate?
HV, Somerville, MA, USAI've a 95 Honda Accord, about 185, 000 miles. It idles rough, mostly when stopped, but runs well when in motion. It especially shakes and shimmies when I turn on the air. Changed the air filter, but the car does need some regular maintenance ... tune up, and so forth.
Took it to my regular mechanic and he thought it might be computer based. Is this possible? Or is this a regular problem seen on a Honda that's fixable with standard maintenance? I've an appointment and don't want to get sold $1, 000 worth of service I don't need.on page 26 of 64 for my 1991 accord dx you talk about
a speedomoter chip? could this be the vehicle speed
sensor? i called my local dealer and the hadn't heard
of a speedomoter chip. my car has the same problems
as the lady with the question but the local dealer says it's the speed sensor. also, can i fix it or does the dealer have to, and exactly where is the part located? can you send a picture? thanks!My electric door locks will lock from inside car but not unlock, mechanic tested all switches and all are fine, he only gets 5.4 volts at each switch (instead of 12 volts) and has traced this back all the way to the fuse box. Is there a relay or "slush" module that I can replace? He mentioned a slush module but didn't know any more about it.Can you tell me where the thermostat is located? I have just replace the radiator, and the car is still running hot. I am not sure where to find the themostat, and need this information asap.
Charles SmithS light come on, sometime speedo tach was drop to zero and alternator was not charging event has a new battery installed, and also anti lock break was stay on all the time.The signal lights do not work for about 10 minutes after starting up the car, whether driving or idling. They don't tick or flash on the dahsboard and they don't signal outside at the rear of the car. Eventually, they come back to life. A local mechanic thought, from the description, it is an electrical problem that would cost $45 to fix (labor) once we bought an inexpensive part (a switcher?). The dealership mechanic said it was something in the steering column that would cost $250 to fix ($50 part and $200 labor).
What is it and what is a reasonable sum to have it fixed?my accord began to make a whining problem and now all dash lights stay on all the time. Any ideas?The driver side door will not open. I have taken off the door panel and tried pulling on all the rods and the door will still not open. How do I get the door open?My honda won't start. Makes clicking noise and sometime start.It first start with engine shut down while driving.Change the starter. Please help. thxI had a tune up on my Accord EX. After that, the Engine Check light started coming on. I went to one shop and I was told that it would probably cost over $250 just to diagnose it. The dealer's mechanic will only take one hour to diagnose, but will probably cost over $800 if his suspicions are confirmed. First shop mentioned a Transmission Code "14, " and has never dealt with my problem. I want to save the money and just go to the dealership. What should I expect from a reputable shop?1991 EXR..I recently changed my valve cover gasket that had been leaking in the front for some time. That leak is completely fixed now, but there seems to be oil leaking from the top of the manifold gasket now. I am not sure if it would be oil that has leaked in there from previous and is just getting pushed out now, or if it is my head gasket. From my inspection i can't see any other oil leaking except on the front and it seems to high to be from my head gasket. Any ideas??...thanks ShaneWhile the transmission shifts with some irregularity, the most noticeable and bothersome problem is that it starts in a higher gear after you stop and then accelerate -- accelerating extremely slow. However, all symptoms go away once the car is warmed up.
The dealer wants to replace the transmission. But, it works perfectly when warm. Your opinion?
Davidwhere is the transmission fluid dip stick ? I dont know how to check the fluid? It shifts hard now -jerks into gear?After allowing my 1990 Accord to sit up, undriven for 6 weeks, I started this morning. The 'S' light indicator flashed continually. I backed it out of the drive. The forward movement was sluggish. I drove it down the road 1 mile with the light flashing all the way. It was quiet sluggish. It is automatic and has 50, 000 miles and is like new. What's up?When moving from a dead stop, for a couple of seconds the car makes a rumbling sound and vibrates as though I were driving over rumble strips. This doesn't happen at any other time.Just replaced plugs, wires, d-cap, rotor. When warm
the engine sounds and feels like its missing < 2000 rpms under acceleration. It idles fine and runs well aboue 2000 rpm. I don't notice this when the engine is cold. Help.
car has 265K miles ..1992 Accord suffers from the engine randomly stalling at highway speeds but the car always restarts. First stalling occurrence happens after 5 - 45 minutes but then every 5 -10 minutes afteward. Three garages have not found problem since the stalling never occurs while in their garage. Distributor has been replaced but stalling still occurs.I removed a spark plug wire from the spark plug (only 1) and placed the wire on the valve cover and started up the car. It ran for a few minutes and then shuttered and died. Replaced the spark plug wire on the appropriate spark plug and tried to restart the car. It turns over but I am unable to restart it. I tried reseting the computer by unplugging the battery and then plugging it back up. Still no luck...
Please help.When I turn onto a street either left or right I keep hearing a knocking noise. Is it my CV joints?Whenever I push the brake pedal or the horn switches in my 1988 Accord, the "door ajar" light and chime sound and the seat belt light illuminates. any ideas?My accord will start and the engine sounds great, but only works if I manually hold the kety halfway between the II and III position. As soon as the key returns to the II position the car shuts down. In the past two weeks I replaced a tail-light, a headlight, and observed the dashboard clock intermitently blinking before the latest issue with starting. I'm not sure if they are related to a grounding issue or if the starter problem is independent. If you suspect that the starter is independent what should I look to fix?Hi everytime I drive at random it will the power will cut out for a split second and the speedometer will drop and the lights in the car will shut off for that second. It will all come back on and will be fine. Sometimes it won't happen but once it does happen it'll keep doing it over and over every minute or so. Also when I turn off my car when this happens I'll lose power for a second and my power locks won't work and everything will be shut off and clock and head unit will be reset.
I don't know if this has anything to do with the problem I described but there's been a sound that goes up in pitch everytime I accelerate. I don't know if its coming from my speakers or what but the pitch follows my acceleration. Thanks for all the help.
Freda metalic part that connects outside driver door knob and the lock came loose.
inside door knob seems to be my problem in getting the interior plastic door piece off.
I unscreewed a single screew that was inside the door handle and another screew that was right behind the inside door knob. However when I am trying to pull of the inside plastic door piece it seems to get stuck in the area of inside door knob.
How do I pull the inside door piece off and what percussions should I follow?
Thank you very much for your help!My turn signals are not working, the hazards work. I have changed the turn signal/hazard relay and turn signal switch. The blinkers still do not blink when turn signaler is used. What do you recommend? Could it be something isn't grounded?I am trying to take off the inner tie rod on the drivers side. I can't seem to get a wrench on the nut to turn it off because of a bracket that is in the way (lower arm bracket) and because there is a funny washer that is like folder over and wrapped around the two flat sides of the nut. Are there special tools needed to get this off or do I just need to disassemble more stuff to get to it.Windshield wipe starts to run when I turn the A/C on.Engine runs very rough at idle in Park, vibrates worse in gear (automatic), and is worst in gear when A/C compressor engages. Rear fluid-type motor mount has been replaced-did not fix problem. Dealer advises they can't find problem and suggests I purchase a new Accord! Car is well maintained and has been tuned recently.The battery light comes on and stays on when the engine is at approx 1000 rpm. This is usually when stopped at red lights or stop signs. We had the electrical system checked out and alternator, etc. is ok.I have 1990 Honada Accord. When engine warms up the car hesitates, beteen 1000 to 2000 rpms when taking off. I have changed spark pugs, wires, cap and button, and also ignition ampifier. Was causing this heitation.One day the fuel guage started to read about 1/4 less than what was actually in the tank. A full tank registers 3/4 - 1/2. After using a half tank of gas it reads empty and becomes useless. Where is the problem and how do I go about fixing it? EvanI drive only a few miles a week. Last week, my '87 Accord (5-speed) began to stall while driving on the highway. At first, I thought the transmission was going bad because the car was jerking. I took the car to have a State Inspection and they changed the oil and checked the transmission oil. Returning home, as I drove more slowly around the city streets, the car shut off randomly and the battery and oil lights turned on. I pulled to the side of the road for a couple of minutes, then restarted the car and continued. By the time I got home, it was stalling every couple of blocks (probably about ten times total).I have replaced 2 alternators in the past 3 months. They start to make a high pitched noise and the battery stops charging. The battery is only 6 months old.I must have a short. Where do I start?Engine starts fine. However when I release the key switch after starting, the engine shuts down immediately. If I start the enging and hold the key switch forward slightly, without activating the starter, the engine will continue to run. I've already replaced the ignition key switch.If possible I just need color codes for stock stereo wiring for 1981 Honda Accord 4 door standard.
I truly appreciate it.
P.S. If you you're not able can you p-lease direct
me where I can?I am trying to take off the inner tie rod on the drivers side. I can't seem to get a wrench on the nut to turn it off because of a bracket that is in the way (lower arm bracket) and because there is a funny washer that is like folder over and wrapped around the two flat sides of the nut. Are there special tools needed to get this off or do I just need to disassemble more stuff to get to it.Engine has power. It starts no problem. But have to rev it all the way just to get the car moving a little bit. Put the peddle to the floor and the engine revs at 6k to 7k RPMs. Car does not move. What could be causing this. At first I thought it might be the timing belt but now I think its the transmission.I have an intermittent fuel problem. I would like to replace the fuel pump relay before the more expensive fuel pump, where is the relay located under the dash ?My automatic seatbelts don't work. They are in the correct position to use them, but i would like to fix them. where is the controller that operates the seatbelts? The seatbelt light doesn't come on either.
thanks in advance
RussWhile the transmission shifts with some irregularity, the most noticeable and bothersome problem is that it starts in a higher gear after you stop and then accelerate -- accelerating extremely slow. However, all symptoms go away once the car is warmed up.
The dealer wants to replace the transmission. But, it works perfectly when warm. Your opinion?
DavidEngine won't start after sitting in hot sun, or after a long drive in very hot weather. After a cool down period, car starts right away.
Very intermittant !!Engine idles rough and will not accelerate when shifted into drive.Location of blower motor relay?I hooked my cd player wires up diectly to the battery and then all of a sudden smoke came out from the cd player and from around the clock. Now my car want even crank. It acts like it wants to but it want catch. I checked the fuses. Please help! I have no idea what I am doing! I need to drive to!
ThanksI want to upgrade my stock ignition system with an MSD-6A and a Blaster2 coil. My obstacle now is in figuring out the wirings, which is which and which goes to which. The stock coil has three wires going in and I don't know what they are. Could you provide me with a diagram? Or could you guide me through step-by-step the whole upgrading process? Any suggestion's greatly appreciated. Thanks!I hooked my cd player wires up diectly to the battery and then all of a sudden smoke came out from the cd player and from around the clock. Now my car want even crank. It acts like it wants to but it want catch. I checked the fuses. Please help! I have no idea what I am doing! I need to drive to!
Thanksour cars front brakes will "lock up" they will smoke, and smell, the brake pedal will become hard and the engine loses power then. We have replaced, the front brake pads, calipers, and master cylinder. Bled the brakes, and we have NO CLUE what else to do!! we bought the car for our 16 year old daughter, and we cant let her drive it!! Can someone PLEASE HELP US???Idles fine cold. Stalls when warm. idle drops below 100-800 rpmn chugs and dies. Cold idle is 1500rpmWhen the engine is cold it idles very high (2000 - 3000 rpm). Once it has warmed up, it sometimes idles fine but most of the time will idle very low or even stall. Help! What can a DIYer do here? What should I have a shop do?How much do new brakes, pads, rotors cost for this car? Just trying to budget. Thanks muchThis is a test question from Admin.
MarkA cylinder went out on our Honda a few months ago. We drove it for short distances before we had the engine head replaced along with exhaust and intake valves, thermostate, cap and dist roter button. When we got the car back, it is producing an enormous amount of smoke when turned on and continues when the car is driven. The repair shop said that the o-rings and pistons are now damaged and there was no way to tell this until the engine was put back together and the engine fired.
I need to know if this is true-that the head had to be replaced before the additional problem was detected. The car did not smoke at all before the head gasket was replaced. Now we cannot drive the car at all because of the polution and the smell."Feb 29/04 3:39PM: I have a problem dealing with my check engine light it only happens to come on every so often. after I pull over and shut off the vehicle the light goes away. i am not sure what could be the problem. There was also another time while going over 80 mph with my a/c on and suddenly my check engine light came on and my car would start to jerk. so i slowed down and pulled over and shut the engine off and turned it back on and the light went away. If I take it to a mechanic to read and have a diagnostic will he be able to read my codes off of it if there is not a check engine light on? Why does the car jerk and start to idle real high when changing from park to reverse? Is it normal for the car not not warm up after about 10 -15 minutes of driving? stays cold for a while and i am not sure why.
JOHN"I'm trying drain the fuel tank through the fuel inlet with a mechanical siphon and plastic hose. Removed the filler cap and started the hose past the metal unleaded fuel only flap. However, the hose goes about 3 feet before stopping. I tried two different diameter of hoses without luck. Neither hose touches fuel and I know the tank is half full. No amount of pursuation gets the hose to advance any further. Is there an anti-siphoning device of which I am unaware blocking my path? I cannot find anything in Chilton's about an anti-siphon device, factory installed or other. Is there a way for me to drain the fuel, short of driving it to a repair shop?
Your assistance is greatly appreciated. Thank you very kindly!my accord will run fine, i'll run errands and it will get warm then not start. if i wait 10 minutes then it will start again. then the other day it died while i was driving it. i down shifted, popped the clutch, and it staarted again, i'm thinking it's the cat-converter. would there be any tell tail signs? or am i in the wrong neighborhood?, stevenMY ABS LIGHT GOES ON WHEN I DRIVE OVER 5 MILE/HOUR. AND WHEN I BRAKE THE FRONT BRAKES OF MY CAR SHAKE/VIBRATE. I CHECKED THE FLUIDS FOR LEAKS BUT NO SIGN(S) OF IT. PLEASE LET ME KNOW WHAT IS THE EXACT PROBLEM(S) OF MY CAR.
THANK YOU VERY MUCH1990 Honda Accord LX, fuel injected. Was running fine. Next morning wouldn, t start. Fuel pump ok. Battery new. Injectors appear to be functioning. Weak spark.I bought my 1988 Honda Accord Lxi from a private party about 1 1/2 yrs ago. The car has in excess of 200k miles and I have found out since that it was not very well maintained. The car runs ok, but has started smoking considerably; at first this happened in the morning when I started it, and as it warmed up the smoking would stop. Now, the car continuously smokes when I start it up an/or drive it; I'M TKING VOLCANIC LIKE SMOKE! It just billows out as a white/beige flume that makes it impossible to drive down the driveway. I have a mechanic friend who services it, and he thinks it could be an oil leak into the combustion chamber causing a mix with the gasoline. The most recent service to the car was an oil change and engine flush; I added an oil additive (Marvel or something) and used Pennzoil 20w40 weight oil.
This is my last resort; any advice you can give about how to approach this matter is appreciated. This car is a candidate for donation if it's gonna cost me more than the cost to replace a PCV valve.
LarryI have a problem dealing with my check engine light it only happens to come on every so often. after I pull over and shut off the vehicle the light goes away. i am not sure what could be the problem. There was also another time while going over 80 mph with my a/c on and suddenly my check engine light came on and my car would start to jerk. so i slowed down and pulled over and shut the engine off and turned it back on and the light went away. If I take it to a mechanic to read and have a diagnostic will he be able to read my codes off of it if there is not a check engine light on? Why does the car jerk and start to idle real high when changing from park to reverse? Is it normal for the car not not warm up after about 10 -15 minutes of driving? stays cold for a while and i am not sure why.
JOHNThe speedometer on the car only works sporadically. When it doesn't work another part of the car, the "S" sports light flashes. Every once in a while the check engine light flashes on. I have taken the car to a transmission repair shop and they say the transmission is fine. I figure it has to be something electrical. Can you help? Thanks.-The problem: My dash lights and AC Console Lights do not turn on whatsoever, and my dimmer dimmer knob has no effect.
-The Cause: When I was installing my head unit into my 1999 Honda Accord 4 dr EX sedan, something strange happened. The Dash Lights and the Console Lights (the bulbs, not the LED's) flickered on and off a few times. I looked at my illumination and dimmer wire for the head unit wire-harness and saw that I forgot to cap them, but just cut them flush.
I believe either the illumination or dimmer wire touched metal while I was pushing the head unit into the bay.
What I Have Done:
I have checked all the fuses on both the passenger side and drivers side, and I have checked the fuses in the hood. I have replaced every fuse pertaining to "Illumination", "Interior Lights", "Dimmer" even though NONE looked blown. I have yet to try new relays for Lighting System 1 and 2. I looked for a fuse for the dimmer relay, but this model does not have one. (no spot for it/ no fuse insert).
I have also taken the ac panel and the dash out to check the bulbs and circuit boards. There are not shorts and the bulbs are perfect.
My only guess would now be Fusable Links.
If i am on the right track, where are these, and how do I fix it? (I am a very poooor college student). If I am leaving some fuse unchecked, where do I look?
Once again, all the led's and the check lights on the dash work fine...it's just the bulbs controlled by the dimmer.What is the order of the plug wires for a 1998 Accord 4 cly?
I wasnt thinking and took all the wires off at once while changing them.
Please explain for idiot.
THANKSOn the left side of the steering column (by the dash) is a lever for locking and unlocking the steering column in place (every time I lift it up to lock, it slips down by itself and unlocks and refuses to stay locked.) Apparently there are no adjustments I can make to tighten it. Honda says it is attached to the steering column itself and a whole new steering column is needed. Have you ever ran across something like this and is that the ONLY alternative? There's 38, 000 on car. 2000 over warranty.I have a 99 accord V6 with 186k miles. The car has been stalling on me recently when driving and sometimes when idling. It won't start for 5 minutes, Then it will start and run again. I have had my plugs replaced, new ignition switch, new catalytic converter EGR valve kit, new distributor cap and rotor. In all cases the work has been done at the dealership. Why can't they diagnose problem correctly.When I press the brakes the brake/horn fuse keeps popping. I checked the bulbs and they're fine. The fuse has been replaced and it pops each time I tap on the break pedal. What could be wrong?Recently purchased an 88 honda accord dx 5-speed carb.
Was idling extreme high/low. Rebuilt carb. Then car would start, but when you pressed on the gas pedal, it stalled and died. Eventually just wouldn't start. Could not even smell gas in carb. Replaced fuel filter, replaced fuel cut of relay.
Now, will once in a while start, run for about 2 seconds, then dies. Have to pump pedal several times prior to starting to get this to happen. Otherwise, will not start. Any ideas of what else I could look for? ThanksWhile the transmission shifts with some irregularity, the most noticeable and bothersome problem is that it starts in a higher gear after you stop and then accelerate -- accelerating extremely slow. However, all symptoms go away once the car is warmed up.
The dealer wants to replace the transmission. But, it works perfectly when warm. Your opinion?
DavidWhenever I turn the Honda off, the blower for the A/C & heater still remains on. Eventhough the car is off. This then drains the battery so that the car will not start the next day. I can manually turn the blower off so that it doesn't blow air out, but the electrical light on the blower remains on. Any clue.
Thanks I closed the frame we were in... can you send futher info though this one please????
1990 accord automatic seat belts don't work....I changed the drivers side window, and after I put the door panel back on, and shut the door, the door locked. The un-lock handle will not unlock the door.I need to know how to unlock the door, and maybe a diagram of what the inside door lock looks like.My Honda shuts off while driving. It then usually is hard to restart (taking several tries). I noticed that it seems to happen more often when it is hot outside. I replaced the fuel (main) relay under the steering column thinking that it might just think I dont have any gas, but this didnt work. The other day, it shut off and back on several times in row--real fast..i only knew this was happening by watching the lights on the dash (blinking key means off) and (flashing all lights means just turned on). I have no idea what causes this, but it seems to be very random. I can go days or weeks without any sort of problem at all.Often, after half an hour of driving, and around half a tank of gas or less the car will start to loose power and jerk heavily. I solve it by getting off the highway and filling up! I had my mechanic look at it 3 times. He checked for water in fuel, he changed the distributor cap and wires after doing the wet down test. But, it happened again today.
Thanks for any advice.After disconnecting the battery terminals to change the car battery and installing a new battery, the following electrical systems no longer work: interior dome light, tachometer, turn signals, fuel gauge. Each worked perfectly fine before changing the battery (and all other systems work fine with the new battery). Seems like a fuse issue, but could these really all be connected?Car won't start until the gas cap is removed to release built-up pressure. Will run for a while, then stop--requiring gas cap removal again. When cap is removed, pressure (not vacuum) is perceptable.Left turn signals (lights) only. Rear flashes very quickly (coincides with the turn signal on the instrument panel). Front doesn't flash at all. Do I just need to replace the front signal?why when the engine get hot enough for the fan to comes the fan will not comes on1990 Honda Accord LX. Was running fine but would not start the next morning. Cam is turning so I assume timing belt is ok. Fuel pump is working. Oil level ok. Weak spark. Injectors seem to be working-Test light shows a signal. Compression appears to be ok. Just won't fire.I recently purchased a 1993 Honda Accord for my teenage daughter for her first car. It has 119, 000 miles on it. I feel a vibration in the steering wheel when brake is applied and car comes to a complete stop. The car also idles rough when in reverse or A/C is on. Any suggestions on what might becausing this?
I took the car to a reputable mechanic and he suggested that the engine mounts may be worn, which is why I feel more vibration. I was thinking the idle may need adjusted, but I was told there is nothing to adjust, it's all electronic.
RoxaneReplaced engine in car along with rear motor mount which is vaccum controled. When vehicle is in gear (all except park or nuetral) when the steering wheel is turned in either direction the engine idle races to about 2500 rpm and does not go back down until you shift back into park or nuetral. No check engine lights. Please help customer is wanting car.On colder, high humidity days, the car slows down and finally stalls. I pulled the carb cover/air filter box off and one of the venturis had ice coating the inside of it, but the other was fine. When I sit for 10 minutes, the car will start right back up and run just fine...carb is a 2 barrel, four cylinder automatic with only 95, 000 miles.Battery lost charge after car was parked for a day or so. Several times I jump started it successfully, but the last time I had help and he cross polarized the jumper. I didn't realize until I tried to start the car and heard an unusual hum inside the passenger compartment. What damage has most likely been done? Its a 1977 not '75i haVE an auto accord that just quit shifting into drive. hits 1st and 2nd fine. is full of fluid. I pulled it down to 2nd then back to drive as was suggested by the previous owner. it made no diference. is there some unique little secret that Honda has that will zap this problem? the trans was replaced around 8 months ago..my 92 accord acts as though full choke is on while driving any speed at times. seems to get worse as you drive the car more and more. you can be sitting a red light and try to take off, but it just does not want to go. you have to floor it in order to get a response at times. i realize that it could be a variety of things, but was wondering if this was common in other hondas and if you know specific instances in which you discovered exactly what the problem was and the cure. thanks.I just bought a 1988 honda accord lxi with 182000 miles. I have noticed after it rains that my trunk carpet is wet. When i have the defrost on I get water drop-lets from the vent. Now the previous owner had sealed up the sunroof with silicone and told me that the drain holes were clogged. I plan on taking of the silicone and cleaning out the vents. Is the sunroof causing these leakes? What causes the water in the trunk and water comming out the defrost vent?
Oh, yes there is one more thing. When I change the radio from AM to FM the radio will work for about 10 seconds and then go dead. The lights are still on but none of the buttons work. The radio will only turn on only if I shut the car off and turn it back on and even then the FM wil only work for a couple of seconds. As long as i leave it on Am the radio does not shut off. Any ideas?
I look forward to your reply. Thanks!I have a 1992 accord and it won't start. I cranks and it almost starts but then it just dies. It acts as if it is out of gas. in the morning while driving my speedometer and Tach went haywire jumping all over the place and the car died (no power) I let it coast and it came back on. Now the car won't start. When I try to start it, it cranks fine and I smell a little gas when I pump it. It almost starts but does not. Is this the main relay or a fule issue?My speedodometer fluctuates while driving and sometimes does not work at all. Could the problem be my speedodometer cable, if so where is it located and how hard is it to fix?